Floreat is situated in the Highlands, right up in the Sabie mountains and as we approach it gives me the distinct feel of a foreign place. As we climb up the R536 heading up the escarpment into the small pioneering town of Sabie, the vegetation, sights and sounds change most notably form thick indigenous bush to pine forests and gum tree plantations, rich red soil mud and rolling valleys below. There is no other way to describe this then to say its is truly quite a picturesque location.

Finally we have arrived at Floreat Riverside Lodge situated just out side of the Sabie Township. At a quick glance once through the reception area and into the grounds, wide-open spaces unfold around this beautiful property into grass lawns alongside the Sabie River, forestry, mountains, and green pastures!

Now this is where you’d want to base yourself if you wish to explore the unspoilt beauty of Mpumalanga Panorama with its many breathtaking views, sights and history, as that is certainly very prominent here. Just a short drive away is the quaint Pilgrims Rest a town seemingly forgotten in time rich with a history of pioneers and gold fortune hunters. The infamous and breath taking Blyde River Canyon and its stunning views is also not a long drive from here. There is certainly no shortage of things to do in and around this area.

Floreat Riverside Lodge is a three star privately owned hotel establishment just out side of the town of Sabie on a large property bordered by the Sabie River within a beautiful setting. On arrival we meet with Owner and manager Constantine and his staff who are all very polite and neat and greet us kindly with a cheerful “Good Morning”.

Constantine is a very professional man with a stern handshake but warm and welcoming in his sentiment. He has been running this lodge for 10 years.

On arrival to Floreat Riverside Lodge, you get the feel that you have walked into a commercial establishment and it is very neatly set up and presented. After experiencing it I would say it is a great and accommodating venue for both family getaways and cooperates on business who need a comfortable and well situated base. Floreate clearly caters for a broad range of clientele from families to couples on a romantic escape or honeymoon, to backpackers, bikers and businessmen.

The property and establishment is large and spacious as are all the rooms and accommodation. There are two bar areas, one a more relaxed pub style sports bar where guests are welcome to eat from a pub styled menu, the other a more up class bar where one can enjoy a quiet whiskey after a long day to the sound of jazz tunes filtered through the background and a choice of fine cuisine of an a la cart menu.

Floreat also has its own charming chapel on sight, a health Spa where guests can treat themselves to a variety of spa treatments and pampering moments, a quite and private swimming pool area, an amphitheater and a number of various conference rooms, they are also are fully equipped and staffed to host events and ceremonies such as weddings and or corporate functions.

In total they have 53 delightfully furnished en-suite rooms. Of these 2 are exclusive honeymoon suites, four are self-catering units situated on the other side of the Floreat property literally on the Sabie River bend. These self-catering units are unique in that they allow for privacy and are fully equipped with all the amenities one would require of self-catering accommodation. At Floreat there is definitely an emphasis of friendly hospitality and on comfort in a luxurious yet affordable environment, Floreat serves as a perfect base for exploring the Panorama surrounds as it is very close to all the major Panorama Sights and is within short driving distance of some of this areas most spectacular hiking trails, trout angling and waterfalls. It would also serve suitably as over night accommodation on route to the Lowveld and Kruger National Park.

NUMBELA – A WELL KEPT LITTLE SECRET

Situated on the R40 to Hazyview from White River just before the magnificent De Gama Dam, Numbela is an exceptional self-catering accommodation establishment with scenes, sounds and views to still your very soul.

Numbela offers a unique, private getaway, as each of the three cottages is individually located a good distance apart and are distinctively different from each other. Numbela offers 2 self-contained, separate cottages each comfortably sleeping between 4 and 5 people and 1 bigger cottage to sleep up to 8 people and are all fully equipped with everything one would require as well as books for good reading, board games, and a fire place (there is no television here) so this gives guests the time and opportunity to soak in the surroundings and unwind.  Here you will naturally experience an appreciation of nature, peace and an invigoration of your soul. Using words to explain the calm and serenity of this place is difficult, as it seems they just cannot do it justice. It is definitely high on my list of ‘I will be back here one day’!

Numbela is located on a working farm and its accommodation has been built up around the White River that flows through the property and into De Gama Dam. The bird life here is incredible.

A keen outdoor enthusiast, owner and host Tracy also runs a mountain bike trail from this property and guest are welcome to bring their mountain bikes should they wish to explore this spectacular route!

Tracy is a warm and friendly person with a welcoming nature and every cottage has been decorated with her own unique personal touch. Numbela’s location serves as a suitable base while exploring the Mpumalanga Panorama and is also only a 40 – 45 min drive from the Kruger National Park. This is the sort of place one would come to getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life and spend time reading, soaking up the warm Lowevld sun, and taking time out on the sand beach down by the river that flows and meanders through the property. Numbela offers a most tranquil and unique experience.

Numbela is the ultimate place for couples in search of a romantic getaway or families wanting to re group and spend some quality time together. Numbela is only a 40 min drive form the famous Kruger National Park and is also on the Mpumalanga Panorama Route so there is no shortage of sights and activities if this is what one is after.

Situated on the R40 from Hazyview to White River, Tranquil Nest is every bit as appealing as it sounds! Situated less than a kilometre outside of Hazyview and a short drive to the nearest Kruger Park Entrance gate, Tranquil Nest is a convenient and comfortable location for guests who want to visit the Kruger but do not wish to stay in the Park over night and also serves perfectly as over night accommodation on route to the Kruger National Park or Mozambique.

Despite the fact that this Tranquil Nest is located just off the R40 to Hazeyview, it is surprisingly quiet and relaxing!

Owners Chris and Ellen are two very warm and hospitable hosts. Although they are not based on the property, they are a phone call away and check in on their guest’s daily. Happy to advise guests on routes through the Kruger, activities, good restaurants in the area and to book tours on request – guests will find their hospitality appealing.

Although this is primarily self catering accommodation Tranquil Nest shares its location with  Umbhaba Lodge, and they have a restaurant facility where guests are welcome to dine.

Tranquil Nest is unique in that it offers private self-catering accommodation and caravanning sites at the highest levels of comfort. Each and every self-catering unit has undercover parking its very own, a splash pool or Jacuzzi and its own braai (barbecue facility) area, air conditioning, Television, and full kitchen facilities. Built up on a private game farm, each unit is also located very close to the game fence where it is not rare to encounter passing blue wildebeest in the late afternoons.

Tranquil Nests Honeymoon suite is appealing with its situation almost separate from the other units and its romantically decorated king sized bed and double headed shower!

Each Caravan sight has its own private ablution facility and kitchen area fitted with a washing machine and a fridge and microwave! That’s a first!!

It is clear on arrival just how dedicated the hosts are to clean facilities, good quality service and hospitality. Every unit has an information pack with a list of things to do, places to visit a weekly weather report and contact numbers for relevant services in the area.

Shaded by large overhanging indigenous trees, the likes of the False Thorn and silver leaf, Tranquil Nest offers a good quality and affordable getaway with the luxuries of everything you would expect from a self-catering establishment and some.

Clivia Streams. Quiet, hidden, bliss!

Clivia Streams Lodge is a tranquil escape, private and serene in every way. Tucked away beyond a litchi orchard off the R536, the main self-catering unit is a beautiful log cabin on stilts set up amongst tall indigenous shaded trees with the most luscious green forest for views. The sound of running water from the Sabie River Canal below each unit is a sign that you have arrived and time with your stresses of daily life will disappear like a floating leaf on its way down stream.

As its name suggests Clivia Streams Lodge is aptly named by the colourful appearance of pretty orange Clivia flowers that grow indigenous here in summer around the months of late October early November when the wild forest and all its plants are in full bloom!

A recognised birder friendly paradise, this establishment is the ultimate accommodation for birders, nature lovers, quiet family getaways or a private and romantic rendezvous. With Two units, separate from each other, the guest has the choice of booking the 4bedroom self catering log cabin on stilts with deck, lounge area, kitchen, en-suite bathrooms and even an outdoor forest shower or the one bedroom self catering en-suite cottage situated at the bottom of a large garden, located on the edge of the Sabie River Canal that runs through the property.

Fully self-catering with laundry services on request, Clivia Streams has all the comforts of home away from home with tranquil bliss!  The Host Cindy is a warm and friendly person who is not bothering or intrusive in anyway. Here the guests are expected to relax, and get lost in Lowveld time and help themselves – if they need anything, she is a call away.

Only a short 10km Drive form Hazyview and an additional 4km to the nearest entrance gate to the Kruger national Park, it is a central location with easy access to all that Hazyview, The Kruger Park and its surrounds have to offer.

Most appealing apart from its still and quiet tranquil appeal on the other hand is its convenient location within less then a km from the adventure hub of the Lowveld, Nduna Adventures. Nuduna offers mountain biking, hiking trails, horse riding, quad biking, river rafting, canopy tours and almost any other outdoor adventure you could possibly imagine!

I awoke this morning to a humid morning, the air thick with the promise of rain.

As I made my way down a steep winding strip road that leads into the valley, I notice the sign: “30km – Caution Wild Animals”.

Hamilton Parks Country Lodge is situated on the R40 out of Hazyview.  After turning off into the main gate it’s a fairly long but enjoyable slow drive down into the valley through some incredible indigenous forest and breathtaking valley views as the road winds down toward the homestead.

Rumor has it that this property originally belonged to James Stevenson-Hamilton, Kruger National Parks’s first Game Warden in 1902. Hence how the property got its name. It was once a dairy farm and as it changed hands over the years it was extended and built onto until it became the Colonial themed African country lodge it is today.

Thatched and dressed with the authentic smell of an African safari lodge and furnished with dark wood antiques and colonial African décor, there is undoubtedly a romantic air of elegance and regal class here. Hamilton Parks Country Lodge prides itself on a 250 hector property of which an additional 200 to 250 hectors is wild bushveld stocked with an extensive list of game form the big cats, leopard, caracal, civet and genets to bushbuck, nyala, kudu, bush pig, mongoose, mearcats and warthog to name a few.

With a strong interest in the history of the area, the wildlife, and a love for animals, current owner Kurt Mulder offers guided bush walks and horse trails though the property. They also offer paraplegic therapy horse riding as well. If one chooses not to take up the trail walk and ride and would rather spend the day soaking up the sun by the pool, one can do so at the pool located near the main lodge and situated in the surrounds of a vast and stunning indigenous garden over populated with magnificent bird life and a resident peacock. You are guaranteed a day of absolute calm and quiet indulgence.

Hamilton Parks Country Lodge has 14 rooms all of which are situated away from the reception offering a quiet location and privacy. Four of the 14 rooms are en-suite with bath and shower with twin or double beds. Two of these rooms can be set up on request to accommodate a family of up to four. The rest of the rooms are twin rooms with en-suite shower and toilet. All rooms have ceiling fans, tea and coffee facilities, a mini-bar, a mini-safe for valuables and a snack basket. Each room also has an outside veranda looking out into the spectacular surrounds of the valley below.

This South African lodge has an a la carte exquisite menu offering the opportunity the to eat African game and traditional African delicacies if you are up to it. With a professional chef in-house guests iare guaranteed a superb meal.

Hamilton Parks Country Lodge is the type of establishment you go to, to experience the charm of African country living. It’s a quiet and comfortable lodge set up in true luxurious Southern African country lodge style. Here one has connected access to all the tours available in the area, bush walks on the property, a large swimming pool, and some fantastic game and bird viewing. It is expected that guests relax here. It is only a pleasure for the staff here to run around you and make you feel comfortable.

I woke up to a quite and still morning. The only sounds I could hear was the ceiling fan above me. There was a beautiful thunderstorm storm last night and the smell of summer rains still lingered in the air. You haven’t smelt rain until you smell it on rich African soil this is a fact.

After a full English breakfast, the strongest cup of coffee I could find, and armed with two 1 liter bottles of mineral water I feel recharged after yesterday’s heat wave and ready to take on Lowveld and all its splendors again. Next location: Ant & Elephant Chalets on the R536 road to Sabie.

Ant & Elephant, R536 Hazyview, Mpumalanga, South Africa

6km from Hazyview on the R536 to Sabie, Ant & Elephant is perched on a steep rise up a dirt farm road littered with a blanket of lovely Jacaranda flowers. It’s the time of year now, where everything is in flower. Bad news for allergy sufferers, great news for bird and botanical enthusiasts!

Renowned locally for its good food, Ant & Elephant offers freestanding self-catering chalets in Hazyview and single room en suite rooms, all of which include a bed & breakfast service. They have 20 free standing units, 17 self-catering and 3 en suite rooms.

With the convenience of the restaurant, one never has to travel far in search of a good meal however, should you be willing to get out adventure awaits all around you. This is after all ‘Adventure Junkie’ country!

The establishment is situated on a large farm property and guests are welcome to roam the area to their hearts content. There is a small dam near by and on the other side of the farm one can enjoy the thrill and splendour of a natural spring.  In this climate you may want to take your bathing suite along with you!

Each unit is very private and fully equipped with everything you need, from microwave and fridge to Dstv Television and cutlery. The main appeal here is that Ant & Elephant is a comfortable and relaxed affordable accommodation in Hazyview whilst visiting this extraordinary part of the country. Owners Simone and Warren are two very hassle-free and friendly people who will make sure that you have everything you need.

As well connected locals they can also suggest some great activities in and around the Hazyview area and will arrange any tours you wish to encounter with the greatest of pleasure.

Ant & Elephant has been open for 12 years and has earned itself a good reputation amongst regular visitors to the area in both local and international capacity, which goes to show that comfort, familiarity and affordability is a huge draw card!

After soaking up Ant & Elephant and a nice cold refreshing Coke it was time to move onto the next destination and by now the humidity had build back up with a vengeance. It’s definitely something you get used to as your body acclimatises and thankfully in most of these establishments they have the luxury of air-conditioning, fans and swimming pools!

Our next stop was Laughing Waters just down the R536 Road back towards Hazeyview.

Laughing Waters, R536 Hazeyview, Mpumalanga, South Africa

Laughing Waters is as picturesque and attractive as it sounds. Turning down yet another dirt road off the main road to Sabie, you drive through orchids of citrus fragrant lemon trees. The smell is refreshing and combined with the smell of cool afternoon rain in the distance, a delightful sensual experience.

The Sabie River runs right through the property and to get to the Homestead, one has to cross it. Here one also has access to a river trail where owner and nature lover, Brian, often takes guests on guided bush walks and birding safaris. The life in this valley is vibrant, from crocodiles and hippos (which aught to be cautioned against and when encountered deserve the greatest amount of respect), to birds and mongooses, mearecats and monkeys.

The Sabie River

Laughing Waters is situated on the edge of the valley and is presented in true African Colonial, farmhouse style with rolling green lawns, exquisitely manicured flowerbeds and large tall shady indigenous trees.

This, I can honestly say, is a real home away from home sort of establishment. Essentially a bed & breakfast, dinner can be arranged on request, although Laughing Waters is a short drive from a multitude of fantastic restaurants and local pubs that serve delightful pub dinners.

Brain and his wife, Zoe, are two of the nicest people, both South African citizens but originally form Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), they are a very kind hearted, open and hospitable couple and also very knowledgeable on the history of the area, its cultures and the wildlife.

Brain shared with me the meaning of the word ‘Sabie’. It comes from the Swazi word ‘Isaba’ which means, ‘be careful’.  This is because there are cultrate deposits up river that cause the rocks down stream to be very slippery. There you have it, some useless, but very interesting information.

With over 200 different species of birds in their garden alone, Laughing Waters is a nature enthusiast haven. It is a very quiet, off the main track, accessible and conveniently situated Country House. Any tours you may wish to park take in can be arranged on request and should you require it, packed breakfasts can also be prepared.

There are 5 rooms all en suite, all are spacious and cool and fitted with a bath and or a shower as well as ceiling fans and tea and coffee facilities. With stone tiled floors  and large windows with high ceilings, the rooms are cool and the air flows easy which is an added bonus in this area, especially during this hot and humid time of year! There are 2 double rooms, 2 twin rooms and 1 twin or double room with a single sleeper available.

After the grand tour of the garden and this fantastic homely country lodge I re-quenched my thirst with a lovely refreshing bottle of Laughing Waters still water. It was time to move on to the next SME and I did not really feel like I wanted to go. I bid my host Brian goodbye and felt as though I had really connected with this interesting and easy-going character.

After a long day of rush hour traffic encounters in Cape Town, uncomfortably jogging to catch my connecting flight, camera strap asphyxiating my air flow, laptop tucked firmly underarm, my professional dignity trying to keep up and my mentality sparingly intact, I made a dash for gate E1’s final boarding call at OR Thambo.

After trying to mill my way from arrivals to departures in a timely and professional manner I managed to get myself lost in this frustratingly complex and very fancy airport.

Needless to say, I made the flight and no sooner arrived in sunny Mpumalanga to a sweltering heat wave of 40 degrees Celsius (in the shade)! I was also understandably quite thrilled to meet up with my colleague, who was in fact on time to meet me at Kruger International. This surprised me because after all this is the ‘Slow-veld’ as it is affectionately known. (Derived from the word ‘Lowveld’ which is the South African Term for Valley.) The locals here are generally very laid back and “See you later” can mean anything from see you in an hour to 5 days later.  You have got to love it!

It is great to be back! I do adore the Valley and I love the bush. This part of South Africa is so unique in all it has to offer both local tourists and visitors from aboard.

My introduction to the  Lowveld SME’s – First Stop: Gecko Lodge, R536 Hazyview, Mpumalanga, South Africa.

Situated 3km from Hazyview on the R536 to Sabie this stunning venue has all the appeal the average tourist is after. There is something about this place that calms me. Although this part of the province is quite notably an adventure junkie’s heaven, there is a distinct stillness about this place that I just crave!

With Induna Adventures just down the road, Gecko Lodge is hidden beyond a fringe of thick indigenous Lowveld forest close to the Sabie River. It is also the location of the longest aerial cable trail (or zip wires) in South Africa and possibly the Southern Hemisphere.

Thrilling adventures aside, you simply cannot help but take in the sights, sounds and smells the Gecko Lodge premises has on offer. Christmas Beetles shrilling their distinct African song in the background, the smell of an African Potato Bush and, “Oh my word, a Narina Trogon!”  A very rare and beautiful bird!

From the outside all this combines with the tranquil sound of running water coming from around the perimeter of the Lodge walls. The owners have redirected water from the Sabie River Cannel and have it flowing literally around the outside of the lodge like a mini mote. It’s very effective.

Gecko lodge with its African Moroccan slant is exotic and inviting. The staff here are forthcoming and hospitable, dressed with smiles and kind politeness. I introduce my self at the front desk to the receptionist, an older African woman with a kind face by the name of Granny, how apt I think to myself and smile.

There are 27 rooms in total. Twenty-five with twin beds and 2 double rooms, one of which is a very cozy honeymoon sweet tucked privately away above a magnificent aqua blue wall and a spectacular wrought iron spiraling staircase hand crafted by the previous owner who is apparently a renowned wrought iron artist in the area.

All the rooms are en suite with everything you need including a candles and hand crafted candle holders which are hugely convenient because this area is notorious for some of the most amazing thunderstorms and often power cuts as a result around this time of year (October/November).

On that note I now know exactly why they call this property Gecko Lodge. If you look very carefully you will notice these fascinating and harmless little creatures at night near almost every outside light in eager prey of a free and easy insect meal. The nature here is undeniably apparent during the daytime as well, from the most exquisite butterflies, to hippos and crocodiles in the Sabie River a short walk away and aparently the owner, Tom Vorster, an ex game ranger and very knowledgable man on birdlife, nature and the bush in general, spotted leopard droppings the other day!

If its trails, Panorama tours or Kruger Park game drives and microlight flights you are after, then Gecko Lodge is well connected with all the Tour Operators and will gladly arrange and book your activities for you, otherwise, guests are welcome to lounge around the pool like geckos and soak up the warm Mpumalanga sun. If you keen on a bit of a party, Gecko Lodge has a very atmospheric Bar area and Braai (barbaque facility) to keep you entertained or you can explore the local Pubs and Clubs in Hazeyview, there are definitely a few well worth a visit!

Although the lodge is primarily a bed & breakfast establishment, dinner can be booked by arrangement and is often served outside by candlelight under the stars. There is definitely a romantic African air consistent through out the lodge and it absolutely has the appeal of a unique experience.

As the kilometres whizzed by caller after caller expressed their pride, as South Africans, to have proven the doubters wrong by staging one of the most spectacular sporting events ever.  The tournament had been an unabashed success: the third highest attendance of any World Cup, marked by a carnival atmosphere throughout (despite the early elimination of the host country’s team), and barely a security incident to speak of. Hundreds of thousands of international visitors had left the country wowed.

World Cup South Africa Fans / Photo by babasteve

A transformed nation

It had been no small achievement for South Africa to pull off. For so many people to watch the matches, the nation had constructed seven glistening new state-of-the-art stadiums, each of distinctly African architecture. Several cities, Cape Town and Johannesburg among them, had also launched vastly improved mass rapid transit systems to ferry spectators out to each venue. To allow smooth passage between the nine host cities, road networks and airports had been greatly upgraded.

Violent crime, so central to the country’s international reputation, had been reduced by 60 per cent during the tournament to make South Africa one of the safest host nations in living memory. With crime down, host cities could show off their redeveloped waterfront districts and entertainment areas and all and sundry could confidently walk along the streets well into the night. For the few crimes that did occur, increased police deployments and 56 dedicated World Cup courts provided swift and decisive justice. Why, asked one caller, did these achievements have to end now that the tournament was over? The question is a particularly pertinent one: Why could South Africans not continue to do for themselves what they had done so well for the massive influx of international visitors?

An epic road trip

My partner Dave and I were two of the most enthusiastic among this influx of ‘visitors’ (South Africa’s term for international tourists). During the 31 days of the tournament, we drove around 8000 kilometres to watch eleven of the 64 matches played, visiting eight of the ten stadiums in the process and passing through every single South African province. Our epic odyssey saw us cross paths with other visitors from every continent on earth, as well as South Africans from all walks of life. And it had all taken place amidst a stunning diversity of landscapes and wildlife, ensuring that the long journey was never for a moment dull.

The South African welcome

Quite apart from the spectacular stadiums, the clockwork organisation and the amazing games, it was the genuine warmth and welcome from all South Africans, regardless of race, ethnic group and economic background, that made attending the tournament such a remarkable experience. Everywhere we went, once people discovered we were ‘visitors’, they would instantly initiate conversations with us. More than once, while waiting for our car to be refilled, we would be spontaneously approached by another young black petrol station attendant who just wanted to chat about football. We also met numerous older wealthier white South Africans, many of whom were more interested in the upcoming rugby season and the match against the New Zealand All Blacks. While doing a coastal hike in between matches, a lovely couple asked about how we were enjoying our time in South Africa, where we were going; about our background and interests and recommended a lovely place for lunch. No one seemed to take notice of us being an inter-racial couple (I am a Chinese who grew up in New Zealand and Dave is an Australian of Scottish descent).

Racial and social divisions still exist

And yet, as wonderful a host as each South African was, even the most casual visitor could not miss the social and economic divisions that are everywhere apparent. The democratic elections that swept Nelson Mandela and the African National Congress to power may have taken place sixteen years prior, but the change of political system could not erase Apartheid’s legacy overnight.

Many of the towns we visited remained visibly divided into different suburbs that were effectively two different worlds. Poorer, more dilapidated streets and suburbs made up a world inhabited by black South Africans, while just across the way others lived in better kept, visibly more affluent world. Beyond this geographic separation, different groups seemed to keep to themselves even where day-to-day life brought them into close proximity. People of different races may now sit in the same cafes and restaurants, but we rarely saw them sitting around the same table.

The divisions on view were not simply between black and white, or between the various other “colours” represented within the population of the rainbow nation. With the stark inequalities between the nation’s rich and poor, the haves and have-nots of each Apartheid-era grouping also had their separate worlds. In Johannesburg, Durban and Mthatha, we encountered a black middle class whose lifestyles are far removed from those living in rural townships. We also saw a vignette of social tensions between different white people, in an exchange at a fan park between fellow South Africans supporters of the Dutch team. When the one fan failed to understand a sentence in Afrikaans from the other and answered “I speak English,” the other angrily retorted, “Then you’re not a real Dutch fan”.

The contrast between the attitudes of South Africans to ‘visitors’ with their guardedness between each other poses a second pertinent question: If South Africans could extend such universal goodwill to visitors of all races and ethnic groups from around the world, why could this sense of trust and togetherness not be always be extended to each other?

World Cup legacy

In trumpeting the success of the World Cup, the South African government has focused on the concrete economic benefits: masses of new jobs in the construction and hospitality industries generated in preparation for the influx of visitors, a noticeable bump in gross domestic product (GDP) from the money spent in-country by visitors, and shiny newly built infrastructure. The infrastructure apart, however, these tangible benefits are inescapably short-term. Employment, for instance, is expected to decrease in the coming year now that there are no more stadiums to build, while the GDP bump is likely to be just that, a one-off anomaly. If these were to be the only benefits of hosting the World Cup and receiving so many visitors, then South Africans might rightly question the cost. But what we have seen during our approximately 8000 kilometre journey across the country suggests a more significant legacy from the tournament, albeit one that is less tangible: South Africans have shown to the rest of the world that their nation is capable of making its streets safe, of providing quality and secure public transport and more importantly, overcoming racial and social barriers in its day-to-day personal interactions. Besides creating a sense of national pride, this achievement can also become a catalyst for the population to realize new possibilities both of what the country, collectively, can deliver and more importantly, the public services and respect that every person deserves.

Inside shot of the World Cup stadium / Flickr Photo by Jason Wojciechowski

Some of the improvements made during the World Cup have already been continued. The World Cup courts, for instance, have continued operations, in order to assist the regular courts to handle the logjam of cases. At a personal level, there is also plenty of cause for optimism. During the World Cup, the “fan fests” established in parks, beaches and other public spaces in the various host cities were sites where social and economic divisions were left at the gate. Tens of thousands crammed into each of these fests on South Africa match days to will their team to victory; the fests were again packed in the later stages of the tournament as South Africans enthusiastically responded to appeals to adopt a new team. Thrown together with football to break the ice, a friendly atmosphere prevailed. More flamboyantly dressed fans happily posed for photos with people of all backgrounds, while people mingled, danced together, and compared notes on how the match would pan out. It was also in the fan parks that we saw our first inter-racial couple, and saw teenage friends of different races sitting together. This new togetherness did not escape South African commentators, as papers during the tournament were filled with column after column wondering how long and whether it could persist.

If just some of these opportunities for change are seized, then the lasting legacy of the World Cup will be that in proving to visitors what they could achieve, South Africans have themselves re-imagined what their nation could and should be.

The angel on our shoulder has been replaced by a sandal-wearing environmental protestor, who whispers in our ear every time we decide it’s a chilly day and we’d rather drive to the local shop. The imp at our other ear somehow seems more sympathetic to the needs of modern life.

The carbon footprint

It was inevitable then that the South African department of environmental affairs and tourism (along with the local Norwegian embassy) should release a report on the carbon footprint of the 2010 world cup. The party pooping assessment estimated that a staggering 2.8 million tonnes of CO2 emissions would be produced – a notable shortfall from the carbon neutrality that the authorities in charge of the event had aimed for.  If the numbers mean nothing to you,  the figure is allegedly roughly equivalent  to the production of 20 cheeseburgers for every man, woman and child in the UK – I work this out as 1200 million burgers. See? Staggering.

Packed World Cup stadium / Flickr Photo by Jason Wojciechowski

The conclusion, of course, should be taken with a generous serving of salt. However it’s also inevitable that in practise, the report will have a minimal impact on the behaviour of the majority of world cup supporters, who, while flying to Durban’s King Shaka International Airport, (newly-built for the occasion,) will quite understandably wonder how their own personal holiday activity could possibly have an effect on the environment. Meanwhile, about 1200 million burger wrappers will float ominously around Cape Town’s Green Point stadium.

The regional effects

Prophecies of global warming doom aside, it would be churlish not to consider the environmental impact that such an event could have on South Africa on a regional scale. When we picture the Rainbow Nation, all 1.27 million sq. km of it, we envisage the natural: acres of burning savannah and Bushveld, a haven for charismatic predator and graceful prey, diverse cultures, modern-wonder-of-the-world Table Mountain, and penguins dipping and diving near the former prison cells of Robben Island. South Africa enjoys the third-highest level of biodiversity in the world, and generously, it has brought its wild side to tourists, courtesy of game drives, and adventure sports ranging from bird-watching to diving with sharks. It’s likely that with such abounding opportunities, many travellers this summer will at some point during their stay swap their vuvuzelas for their videophones.

However the country is also home to 2,000 plant species on the endangered list, not to mention about 20% of its mammals being under threat, including the Black Rhinoceros and African Elephant – some impressive creatures that could do without the waste, pollution, and, especially pertinent to the area, the unsustainable use of water associated with large influxes of people. For the well-informed visitor, ecotourism provides a pleasing balance of memorable experience and a clean conscience. This ‘responsible’ tourism ostensibly exists for visitors to enjoy pristine areas of natural beauty, with a low environmental impact, and designs on providing education, funds for conservation and local empowerment. South Africa itself boasts a well-maintained network of protected areas and shrewd conservation practices. Yet scratch the surface of ecotourism, and the hidden costs are revealed: the displacement of local communities for the creation of parks, disputes over land-use, the creation of amenities for the unwitting do-gooder, and the channelling of money away from other long-term conservation strategies – and let’s not even go into the carbon produced from the often-lengthy journeys required to see such exotic locations. The little protestor on the shoulder is a-whispering again.

South African wildlife acclimatisation

And it’s not just the economy that can suffer, but the tooth-and-clawed natives are also affected by such an invasion of tourists. Just as footballers learn to acclimatise to the audiences of thousands around them, and grow begrudgingly accustomed to the snapping of the paparazzi even when immersed in more mundane daily chores, South Africa’s wildlife is all too much at risk of acclimatising to their human spectators, with arguable potential for human/animal conflict, and unpredictable change in animal behaviour brought about by disruption of feeding and nesting. In Kenya, it’s been noted that cheetahs have been driven off their reserves by tourists, increasing the risk of inbreeding, and endangering the species even more than they are already. (They are listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN red list of threatened species, with a decreasing population.)

Does ecotourism ameliorate or exacerbate concerns?

Well, its intentions are honourable and it can increase environmental awareness, and if wisely-managed, it can still be one of the most conscientious ways of seeing animals in their natural habitat. Besides, South Africa’s wildlife-encountering opportunities reveal a heart of far greater darkness. A tabloid newspaper recently revealed that a number of game lodges are aiming to tempt world cup fans with packages allowing them to shoot animals in an activity known as ‘canned hunting’’, in which the animals – notably the big cats – are bred, released, and pursued. At over £15,000 a pop, the sport is strictly for the wealthy (and opportunistic), and it’s a fair bet that the average footy fan wouldn’t miss a game to indulge.

With such a range of environmental threats to South Africa being increased this summer, it’s gratifying to see measures being put in place.  A partnership between the Global Environment Facility, the United Nations Environment Programme, (UNEP), and the South African Department of Environmental Affairs, DEA has brought about an initiative comprising an array of projects seeking to minimise the event’s environmental impact. Across six of the nine host cities, the programme aims to reduce energy consumption through solar panels on public street lights, traffic lights and billboards, and is carrying out a ‘Green Passport’ programme, distributing a booklet containing information on responsible tourism to 100, 000 spectators. At 32 pages each, it’s hard not to wince at the irony of a vision of 100,000 booklets being discarded by the roadside, and the plans to allow visitors to be able to assess their own carbon footprints has doubtful potential, (Hey kids! Who’s game for some number-crunching fun?,) but then nobody ever claimed that environmental education was a speedy process.

Long Street in Cape Town, South Africa / Flickr Photo by Anne Froehlich

Nor is it a process which can be easily achieved on a large scale. The environment is closely linked with the economy, and often dependent on it, and it’s indubitable that the world cup is sure to boost opportunities for guesthouse owners, restaurants, transport companies, local attractions and cultural activity. A healthy respect for a country’s environment can begin with a healthy respect for the country itself. If well-managed, South Africa’s tourism can perform wonders for conservation and green living. Audits and assessments will encourage good practise, conscientious consumers can encourage the running of sustainable businesses, and (in our wildest dreams), generated wealth could be invested back into promoting conservation measures and new environmental initiatives. Tourism itself needn’t be a case of simply standing back to see a country with a pair of binoculars. South Africa has countless opportunities to actually participate in hands on rural development initiatives, conservation expeditions and perhaps most importantly, education. These are invaluable ways of redressing the environmental and sociological balance that can be knocked during holiday seasons.

The environmental consequences remain unwritten

South Africa stands canned and cornered like one of its magnificent lions, staring curiously down the barrel of a hunter’s rifle. Whether it’s shot or let go remains to be seen, and the decision lies with not just the masses descending for the football, but on its own people, government, and the hordes of tourists that wish to see this stunning country in the future. With the enormous investment channelled into venues and amenities for the year’s big event, South Africa will have to work hard to continue to make use of its new and improved infrastructure, public transit systems and energy resources in the long-term – even years after football fans have skipped, or trudged, their ways home.

And while British visitors perform an autopsy on Rooney’s performance, and Capello’s curious methods, perhaps we should also use the consequences of mass tourism observed at the event as an example to study for the approaching London Olympics 2014. South Africa should at least provide us with some food for thought – and hopefully fewer than 1200 million cheeseburgers worth.

Spitzkoppe campsite / Flickr photo by Tak from HK

Campfires and beer

Memories flood back to you as you become aware of your surroundings. The previous afternoon the custom-built overland truck carrying all camping necessities, pulled up at a wild camp at the base of the beautiful Spitzkoppe, a granite outcrop rising some 1700m above the surrounding gravel plains of central west Namibia. The granite rock became a playground as you explored its heights and crevices. As the sun dropped to the horizon, the dust in the air over the gravel plains created a magical African sunset, the suns rays reflected burnt orange off Spitzkoppes granite rock. A magical evening was spent under the clear starry sky, Barking Geckos called while you sat around a glowing campfire sipping a Windhoek lager with your fellow campers and guide.

Another day another destination

After a tasty breakfast of French toast, hot tea and cereal prepared by your guide, with communal effort, camp is packed up and you board the overland truck to head off to the next exciting destination – Etosha National Park. Many hours are spent travelling on board the overland truck, its kind of part of the overlanding experience. Rough gravel roads, dust, the rattle and shake of the truck, African tunes of “The Best of Johnny Clegg” playing in the background, a competitive card game enjoyed by your fellow travellers, as you watch the African savannah pass by.

Three giraffes / Flickr photo by naddel@weltfrauschaft

As you enter Etosha National Park in northern Namibia, the pace slows right down and everyone grabs a window seat to start the game spotting in this popular game reserve. Here your guides experience and knowledge of wildlife is brought to light. If she is worth her salt, she will be interpreting the signs of the bush to you, not only identifying the animal, bird, tree, rock, insect, snake species but giving you some background on their habits and habitats. Being a Field Guide means being able to interpret the African bush and all overland guides are registered field guides.

Not for everyone

Overland Safaris are not for everyone and a clear understand should be obtained before heading out on one. They are adventurous, active and continuously on the move. It’s a wonderful way to experience the major highlights of a few countries. Large distances are covered and you will travel with a relatively large group of people. You will get dirty, some camps don’t have showers and you will need to be prepared to rough it. The tour does not always run to schedule, sometimes a flooding river will stop you in your tracks or your guide will have to test the trucks 4×4 abilities and sometimes get stuck, which then requires your assistance to push. The guides have a great ability to create excellent teamwork within the group and most of the time these safaris are excellent fun!

Southern and East Africa offer a diverse range of exciting overland safaris aimed at the budget traveller. These range from 7 to 56 days long and can traverse multiple countries.

In 1966 an apartheid government declared valuable urban areas “whites only” areas and all people of colour were forcibly removed from their homes to the barren low-lying outer areas of the cities, their homes bulldozed to the ground.

Vicky's B&B / Flickr photo by firesika

Visiting a Township in Cape Town

The low-lying outer areas are now known as the townships and in Cape Town particularly, the Cape Flats.

A very popular activity for international tourists to South Africa is a guided township tour. The desire to learn how the different communities live, to meet the people and to learn of South Africa’s history is of great interest to them.

As a resident Capetonian from the “other side” of town, I decided it was time I ventured out of the comforts of my home environment into the townships of the Cape Flats. You must understand that this is not a common thing for a white South African to do.

The perception of the townships is that they are dangerous, areas where violent crime takes place and where white faces are not welcome. Well, for the most part, this is a huge misperception.

District Six Museum

African Eagle Day Tours escorted me on a half-day guided tour, which incorporated a visit to the District Six Museum, Langa and Khayelitsha. The District Six Museum, established in December 1994 (when Nelson Mandela became president of South Africa), works with the memories of the communities that used to live in District 6 and with the history of forced removals more generally. This allows a deeper understanding of the people and of the townships you visit on the tour. Langa and Khayelitsha are two of the older townships on the Cape Flats.

Black Economic Empowerment

Our tour guide, Songs, a wonderful quiet natured Xhosa gentleman who lives in the Langa Township, accompanied us. Songezo, his full name, in Xhosa means late addition, being the last child of his family. Songs introduced us to another side of Cape Town.

Repair stores in Khayelitsha / Flickr photo by kudumomo

An eye-opening stroll through the littered streets laced with the smell of barbequed sheep’s head, had me captivated (the insides a delicacy enjoyed by the locals). Small children decently dressed playing a cheerful, lively game of soccer; colourful, neatly assembled corrugated iron shacks with communal ablution facilities and water points and a mass of loose electrical wires running between homes and electrical points, any electrician’s nightmare! Most of all, what I noticed was the friendliness and welcoming attitude of the people. We attracted many young children who posed eagerly for photographs wanting in return to see themselves in the digital photo.

During South Africa’s progression to democracy, the communities have learned to welcome tourists as they realise that tourism is a good form of income for the communities as a whole. African Eagle Day Tours, merged with Grassroute Tours, is a Black Economic Empowerment company that offers informative township tours and cultural experiences in a non-invasive sustainable way, bringing benefits to the communities it visits.

Almost all of the communities of the Cape Flats remain, to one degree or another, poverty stricken. A wide range of community empowerment organisations work non-violently to combat poverty, crime and health problems and the role of civil society in many parts of the area is relatively strong.

Creative business blossoming out the townships

Wonderfully creative business developments can be found the in townships. Vicky’s B&B in Khayelitsha, included on the itinerary for the township tour, is a homely colourful engaging overnight stop for travellers from all over the world. This offers the opportunity to live in the townships and really feel the vibe!

Khayelitsha Craft Market / Flickr photo by World Bank Photo Collection

Mzoli’s Place in Gugulethu is another great example of a creative business blossoming out the townships. Mzoli’s is actually a butchery but has been expanded to include a pub next door where one can enjoy a couple of cold ones with the locals while feasting on some deliciously braaied (barbequed) meat. Its festive, its lively, its likely to have you partying until late! I was delighted to experience Mzoli’s on the evening that Bafana Bafana played France in the FIFA World Cup Soccer. What a magnificent vibe there was! What cameraderie and passion for South Africa! A truly memorable experience!

Mzoli's Meat / Flickr photo by Scott MacLeod Liddle

Visiting the townships is a wonderful eye opening experience allowing you to more fully and tangibly grasp South Africa and her people. I happily recommend it!

Sikhululekile docked at Robben Island

The island itself is relatively small at only 570 hectares and was used predominantly as a maximum-security prison for both political prisoners and convicts. In the 19th century it was used as a leper colony. Back in 1892, it was believed that leprosy was contagious and those with leprosy were banished to the island. Today one can see the graveyard of the remaining bodies. During World War 2, the island was fortified and guns were installed as part of the defenses for Cape Town.

Scenic bus tour of Robben Island

Shipwreck on Robben Island with views of Cape Town

All 285 passengers embarked the waiting tour busses to partake in a 45 min scenic tour around the island, each with its own tour guide offering an informative commentary. The busses then pulled up outside the maximum-security prison and we were taken inside on a journey of desperate struggle, of harsh labour and terrible living conditions. (The large group of 300 tourists were again split up into smaller groups). Our guide, Muthe, an ex-political prisoner, described many horrific scenes that he encountered first hand and still remembers vividly today. I could sense an intense anger in him over South Africa’s past, how things used to be, how black people in our country were treated only because of their colour. I wondered if Muthe felt there had been in a change in our country over the last 19 years (since the final release of all the political prisoners in 1991) or since South Africa became a democracy (1994), or did he still hold anger and blame towards South Africa’s apartheid era? Muthe and the other ex-political prisoners, are a product of decades of violent conflict, one that will probably take many years still to change at core level.

Continue reading this article on the Africa Tamed Travel Blog.