Finding the Local Rhythm

Now, three months later, I’ve learned that Marrakech has come a long way in the last few years. I see it in a very different light, one in which the city does not revolve only around its stereotypes. Basing myself in a predominantly local residential area has allowed me to experience how the people of Marrakech really live.

Berber family / Photo by Ben P. Jones

For example, despite tourist perceptions, the teeming square of Jemaa el Fna is a haven primarily for foreigners and visiting Moroccans; most locals tend to avoid it unless they are looking for a bargain. People here prefer the relaxed life. Endlessly drinking tea and coffee in the cafés and restaurants that adorn the wide boulevards and labyrinthine souks, staring at passers-by and talking are the locals’ favourite pastimes.

A City of Many Identities

The beauty of Marrakech is its ability to mix the traditional with the contemporary. Gueliz, the modern commercial city, is a different world from the chaos of the immediately adjacent old walled medina. Gueliz is the plush side of the city and a pleasure to observe, from the beautiful façade of the new train station, located diagonally opposite the Royal Theatre, to the Palais des congrès, which hosts the superb annual Marrakech International Film Festival, just five minutes stroll away. But I will never tire of seeing a wagonload of oranges being dragged through these streets while a latest-model Mercedes weaves past, its horn blaring in customary fashion to gain maximum attention.

This vision, so typical of Marrakech, epitomises the struggle that Morocco as a whole is facing. Tradition is being challenged by Western influences, sometimes opening deep divides between families over how life should be lived. Similarly, at times I feel like the French believe they still rule here. But this is clearly Morocco; times have changed. Moroccans are very much in control of their own destiny, albeit unafraid to draw on the many benefits the French influence has brought.

Exploring Marrakech / Photo by Ben P. Jones

I am also fascinated by another influence on Marrakech – that of the Tamazight (Berber) people. Little prejudice seems to exist between Arabs and other ethnic groups found across this vast country. With the devout love for the king, there is no major unrest beyond the chaos of trying to drive through the city during rush hour.

In fact, the level of respect between Moroccans is an example to be followed. So too is the respect for visitors, hospitality being forthcoming far more often than not and discretion being the rule.

Marrakech is nevertheless increasingly being forced to face the sins common to all big cities. Many visitors are initially shocked by what they see: poverty is rife. But Moroccans are creative and jobs are found in every situation no matter how peculiar it might seem. Over time, the ugly just becomes beautiful and an acceptable part of everyday life. Personally I love the way the city is adapting. It has its issues, but I feel very safe.

Beyond the Walls

Luckily I have ventured outside the city many times. On a clear day, the short walk from my apartment to the local supermarket promises views of the Atlas Mountains. This is a constant reminder of how privileged I am to call Marrakech my home, but also a constant lure out of it.

Imlil is located deep in the Atlas mountains of Morocco / Photo by Ben P. Jones

Locals regularly make the journey to the Atlas region to visit relatives and to eat some of the best tajines, especially in the area of Ourika. Every route to the mountains involves roughly half an hour of driving. The views along the way are exquisite, exactly why many believe the city to be one of the best in the world. The contrast between snow-capped mountains and 30°C heat in February is another illustration of its magic.

Oasis of Tranquillity

I have taken to this city so much that I will defend it against its critics. Some say it is too touristic, but this depends on how touristic you want to make it. Others think it is chaotic, uncivilised and too small. This may at times seem true, but I think of Marrakech an oasis of tranquillity, especially when contrasted with other cities in Morocco and elsewhere I have known. To me, Marrakech is by far number one for quality of life.

Source: This article was first published on whl.travel Blog