About the author
Claire is the owner of a successful travel company based in Cape Town, South Africa. Africa Tamed (www.africatamed.co.za) offers personalised all-inclusive vacation packages of South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Mozambique.

A journey into South Africa’s apartheid era

Sikhululekile, the new luxurious Robben Island ferry, cruised across Table Bay at a strong 25knot pace with a full load of 285 passengers. This was the start of our 3hr30min journey into South Africa’s bumpy apartheid history. Standing on the outer deck, the strong wind playing havoc with my long hair while Sikhululekile bounded powerfully over the huge swell, I was being entertained by a school of dolphins playfully following alongside the motor yacht. Within 30min we had arrived at the island only 12km from the Cape Town harbour, the potent stench of the seal colony at the entrance to the harbour maliciously reawakened my senses, completely knocking me off guard. Thankfully it was short lived and I could regain my composure as the smell dissipated when we disembarked.

Sikhululekile docked at Robben Island

The island itself is relatively small at only 570 hectares and was used predominantly as a maximum-security prison for both political prisoners and convicts. In the 19th century it was used as a leper colony. Back in 1892, it was believed that leprosy was contagious and those with leprosy were banished to the island. Today one can see the graveyard of the remaining bodies. During World War 2, the island was fortified and guns were installed as part of the defenses for Cape Town.

Scenic bus tour of Robben Island

Shipwreck on Robben Island with views of Cape Town

All 285 passengers embarked the waiting tour busses to partake in a 45 min scenic tour around the island, each with its own tour guide offering an informative commentary. The busses then pulled up outside the maximum-security prison and we were taken inside on a journey of desperate struggle, of harsh labour and terrible living conditions. (The large group of 300 tourists were again split up into smaller groups). Our guide, Muthe, an ex-political prisoner, described many horrific scenes that he encountered first hand and still remembers vividly today. I could sense an intense anger in him over South Africa’s past, how things used to be, how black people in our country were treated only because of their colour. I wondered if Muthe felt there had been in a change in our country over the last 19 years (since the final release of all the political prisoners in 1991) or since South Africa became a democracy (1994), or did he still hold anger and blame towards South Africa’s apartheid era? Muthe and the other ex-political prisoners, are a product of decades of violent conflict, one that will probably take many years still to change at core level.

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