Beyond The Glitz & Glamour Of Dubai

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Emiratis in Dubai have shrunk proportionately as the expat population has grown. They now make up only 10 to 12% of the entire Dubai population, which was estimated to be 1.59 million in 2008. “I’m afraid we are building towers but losing the Emirates,” said the Dubai Police Chief in 2008 as he echoed the woes of a decreasing local population. The rapid growth of the foreign population in Dubai is a result of government efforts to diversify the economy as oil reserves dwindle.

Dubai development / Photo by Kristina Aaronson

Once a quiet village of pearl divers

It was Sheikh Rashid, a former ruler of Dubai who envisioned turning the quiet village of pearl divers, fishermen, and traders on the Arabian Gulf into a world destination. In 1959 he borrowed money from Kuwait to widen and deepen the creek that runs through the city, and make it into a large port and commercial hub. Workers from all over the world arrived to build Dubai. Most of the oil discovered in 1966 was in neighboring Abu Dhabi so Dubai began to look for other sources of revenue. After the formation of the United Arab Emirates in 1971 Dubai became known as the entrepreneurial city and grew into a world financial center, a real estate “mecca”, and the ultimate commercial tourist destination that it is today.

Dubai is known as the city of superlatives. It boasts the biggest, tallest, newest, most expensive, boldest, most futuristic skyscrapers and developments in the world. All of this has come about as people from more than 200 cultures descended on the city to live and work, all bringing their expertise and labour. Professionals, tradesmen, and labourers form a spectrum from rich to poor, hard working to frivolous. Living in such a global environment is stimulating.  English is spoken with many different accents, and I interact with people all around me who live according to their own customs.  A British person will respect a queue whilst an Egyptian or an Indian has no idea why anyone should line up or take turns. A Filipino will greet me with “Hello m’am” and a smile, whilst an Emirati will walk right past me with no eye contact whatsoever.

Construction in Dubai / Photo by Kristina Aaronson

Where are all the Emiratis?

Looking beyond the modern buildings, Emirati locals stand apart from others because they wear their national dress. Men in crisp white gowns called kanduras congregate in public more often than the women who wear long flowing black cloaks (abayas) with black headscarves (sheylas). Emiratis are not hidden, but they do live in villas behind high walls, travel in cars with dark tinted windows, and keep themselves to themselves.  It’s rare for an expat to have an Emirati friend, or be invited into an Emirati home.  Whilst some hold jobs in the public and private sectors – schools and government offices – they do not work in shops, restaurants, construction, or even sell things on the street. These are jobs that have always been done by foreigners.

The local population has had to adapt to a constantly shifting landscape in a very short amount of time.  One afternoon I was having a conversation with one of my students at Zayed University, 20-year old Asma:

“My mother can’t read or write, she only reads the Quran, but I know it’s memorised. Most of my classmates’ mothers are the same, they married and stayed home to have children, there were no schools.” Asma is a second year student at Zayed University. “My mother does not understand anything I study at the university. I cannot talk to my mother about anything”, she confided wistfully.

A new generation is treading on unfamiliar ground

Young Emiratis are having to find their way in an environment that’s distinctly different from the one their parents grew up in. According to the government sponsored UAE Interact web site, projections for 2020 show there will be a large increase in the Emirati population under 40 years old.  Emiratis are wrestling with the question of who will be left in 2020 to remember how things used to be.

The UAE government declared 2008 the Year of National Identity and passed a law requiring that Arabic be used as the official language in all correspondence of all federal authorities and establishments in the country. However, young Emiratis are embracing the English language because it opens the door to popular Western culture. Dr. Hanif Hassan, Minister of Education reiterated, “We want students to graduate who are fluent both in Arabic and English.” More effort is going into publishing books for children in Arabic and making sure young people maintain their confidence and ability in being able to read and write in their native language.  UAE University offers classes in Emirati traditions as part of the regular curriculum.

“We have different traditions now, like we email and text each other, but it is important to learn as much about our heritage as we can and to continue our traditions in our own way,”

- Shamsa Shamsi, a 24-year old UAE University student.

Emirati men / Photo by Kristina Aaronson

The Emiratis will remain a minority

Ironically, a respite for Emiratis may have come in 2009 as the economic global crisis forces the cancellation of development projects. Dubai was the city where people speculated in real estate as if it were the national sport, now expats are losing their jobs and leaving the country. In February 2009, the federal government of the U.A.E. was quick to pass a law protecting locals from being laid off from jobs.

The global economic crisis might just be a temporary break for Emiratis, a chance to catch their breath as building projects are put on hold and the influx of foreigners slows down. No one knows what the outcome will be or how long it will last. Although Emiratis will remain a minority in their own country, with strong support from the government, ruling sheikhs, and a resilient population of educated young people who have known nothing but change, they will be ready for the future.